While exploring the world of clothing and textiles, I created a collage of videos based off what I consider to be “The Joy of Humanity and Clothing”, culture. While culture is beautiful and a root joy for nearly all cultures, it is vital to remember that the unintended consequence of these rapidly evolving trends is over consumerism. Overconsumption is a constant issue in our time as the rise of fast fashion and the quicker and neverending cycle of trends.
There are three categories of textile wastes: pre-consumer (“clean” by-products from the manufacturing process), post-consumer (textiles that no longer have value after use such as towels, sheets, etc.), and industrial textile waste (“dirty” waste materials created from their manufacturing process) (Juanga-Labayen). Although textiles can nearly be 100% recyclable and it would be ideal to reuse all parts of textiles, in reality, much of it goes to waste (Juanga-Labayen). The EPA measures the creation, recycling, energy recovery, and landfilling of most textile materials. In 2018, the rate of recycling was estimated, by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), to be around 14.7% with the estimated rate of recycling clothing to be around 13%, as reported by the American Textile Recycling Service (EPA 2023). Out of all of the material-specific waste (MSW) combusted in order to recover energy, textiles make up nearly 10% of all recovered energy (EPA 2023). Textiles make up nearly 8% of all waste put into landfills (EPA 2023). Although the rate of recycling and energy recovered via combustion have remained relatively standard throughout the years, so has the rate of textile waste that goes to landfills. And while the rates are relatively stable, the amount of overall consumption has drastically skyrocketed due to overconsumption.
There are two major types of textile recycling: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical recycling is the physical recycling that we often think about when we think of recycling such as reusing and repurposing clothes and textiles through upcycling and downcycling. Chemical recycling is the process of depolymerizing the polymers in clothes or dissolving the fibers of cotton (Juanga-Labayen). Polymer or oligomer recycling entails the process of taking apart the fibers while leaving behind the polymers or oligomers intact (Juanga-Labayen). This then allows for the materials to be fully recycled into new textiles. For textiles that contain biodegradable materials such as cotton with over 50% cellulose, anaerobic digestion is used in order to create biogas that is rich in methane for energy use. Cotton garments can also be treated to break down and be used as compost for certain things although they have not been approved for use in farming. Another alternative is that textiles can also be treated with alkalis to be fermented and made into feeding for ethanol production. This process is ideal for clothing that may have some polyester blended into cotton such as jeans (Juanga-Labayen).
While there have been many innovative ways to reinvent and reuse textiles, the root cause of many of these issues is that there is a staggering increase in textile consumption along with unwanted textiles. Reusing is the best option but both reusing and recycling are much better than burning or landfilling textile materials. While I and many others have been able to find ourselves through our self-expression through clothing, we must also learn more about the “behind the scenes” of the production of our clothing.
Sources:
EPA, Environmental Protection Agency, www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/textiles-material-specific-data. Accessed 19 Apr. 2024.
Juanga-Labayen, Jeanger P., et al. “A Review on Textile Recycling Practices and Challenges.” MDPI, Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute, 16 Mar. 2022, www.mdpi.com/2673-7248/2/1/10.
“The Aftermath of Fast Fashion: How Discarded Clothes Impact Public Health and the Environment.” SPH The Aftermath of Fast Fashion How Discarded Clothes Impact Public Health and the Environment Comments, 22 Sept. 2022, www.bu.edu/sph/news/articles/2022/the-aftermath-of-fast-fashion-how-discarded-clothes-impact-public-health-and-the-environment/.
